As the cold weather hits, many women notice their skin becoming duller, tighter and more reactive. Dermatologists call this seasonal sensitivity, while beauty writers have dubbed the phenomenon ‘winter face’.
This can show up as flaking, rough patches or a dull, almost chalky complexion across the cheeks. Redness often crops up around the nose and cheekbones.
Meanwhile, lips dry out and crack. Even our hair changes, with the ends becoming brittle and the scalp tight or itchy.
People with eczema, rosacea, psoriasis or acne almost always find this time of year triggers a flare-up. But even those of us with normally well-balanced skin will experience tightness, irritation or unexpected breakouts.
So, why does it happen?
Cooler air holds less moisture, and when the air is dry it increases transepidermal water loss, which is the rate at which water evaporates from the surface of your skin. Indoors, central heating dries the air even further, so your skin loses moisture faster than it can replace it.
At the same time, you are constantly moving between cold outdoor air and warm rooms. These sudden switches in temperature make the tiny blood vessels in your face open to release heat, then close again to conserve it.
That cycle places stress on the outer layer of your skin. And when that barrier weakens, your skin becomes dry and will allow more irritants to get in, leading to redness, itchiness and sensitivity.
Meanwhile, your hair and scalp react in much the same way. Low humidity causes water to evaporate from the hair shaft, leaving strands brittle and easier to snap. The scalp dries out quickly too, causing tightness and itching.
Here are the six simple changes you can make and the six products you should switch up to banish 'winter face’ for good...
Simple changes you can make
1) Have cooler showers
Hot water strips the skin’s natural oils and increases redness.
2) Protect your face outdoors
A soft scarf held loosely around the lower face shields skin from cold winds without rubbing.
3) Add moisture to your home
Central heating dries the air further. A small humidifier can ease this, but even placing bowls of water near radiators can help.
4) Use gentler products
Cleansers that worked well in summer, such as foaming or fragranced products, can irritate during colder months when the skin is more sensitive. Switch to cream or milk cleansers that clean without stripping.
5) Use SPF every morning
UVA rays are present all year and contribute to skin damage. They pass through cloud cover and windows, so a light SPF protects even on grey days.
6) Take care with exfoliation
Skin is naturally oilier in warmer months, so exfoliating helps remove sweat, sunscreen and dead skin. In colder months oil levels fall and the barrier becomes thinner. Strong acids or scrubs can worsen dryness.
Product fixes
1) A richer moisturiser
Look for ingredients such as ceramides or shea butter. These strengthen the skin barrier and help your skin hold on to water.
2) A hydrating serum
Ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, niacinamide or glycerine draw moisture into the skin and support the repair process. They also help your moisturiser work more effectively.
3) A better lip balm routine
Many balms contain petroleum jelly, which creates a barrier but does not hydrate. If your lips are already dry this can make them feel worse. Use a product that adds moisture first, then apply a protective layer of balm over the top.
4) A soothing mask
Gel or cream masks with calming ingredients such as aloe vera or oat extract can reduce redness and provide a quick hydration boost. They help settle irritation after cold or windy days.
5) Scalp treatments
Dry, itchy scalps benefit from gentle exfoliating tonics that clear flaky build-up, and from moisturising oils used once a week. These rebalance the scalp and ease tightness.
6) A heavier night cream or overnight balm
Skin loses moisture at night. A thicker formula seals hydration in, softens dry patches and helps prevent that tight morning feeling.
If all else fails and your skin becomes stubbornly itchy, cracked or painful, you may have seasonal eczema. Red, inflamed or thickened patches on the hands are also common at this time of year. Your GP can prescribe a short course of steroid cream that will help.